ATV Adventures in Nova Scotia
Did you know that Nova Scotia has over 8,000 km of ATV trails? ATV adventures are an exciting way to get off the beaten path and into the heart of ...
This question has been asked countless times and depending on who you ask, there are countless answers.
The truth is – BOTH ways are amazing!
But that really doesn’t help someone who is looking for hidden gems, photo spots, top hiking trails, and more while planning their trip around the Cabot Trail… and it also doesn’t answer other frequently asked questions, such as:
- Which way is the best way to get to the Cabot Trail?
- What are the “don’t miss” and recommended stops, attractions, places to eat, etc. along the Cabot Trail?
You’ve asked… so WE’VE asked Travel Counsellors at each of the five Nova Scotia Visitor Information Centres and Contact Centre what their top recommendations are to someone asking for ways to experience the best of Cape Breton Island’s famous Cabot Trail. We’ve compiled their “Frequently Asked Questions” along with their suggestions below to help you plan your trip around the Cabot Trail.
Which is the best way to travel around the Cabot Trail – clockwise or counter-clockwise?
“We usually suggest counter-clockwise unless…”
–Amherst Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
“…you are driving in a larger vehicle such as in RV or towing a camper/5th wheel, as clockwise makes the climbs easier. Also, we like to mention that driving counter-clockwise can be a bit daunting for those that are scared of heights… but perhaps easier on the driver if they are the one who doesn’t like heights!”
“Honestly, I really don’t think there is a wrong way to travel the Cabot Trail.”
–Port Hastings Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
“I love driving clockwise for the beautiful views – some of my favourites being between Margaree and the National Park entrance just past Chéticamp. The views from a few look-offs – especially the pull-off with the view that overlooks Pleasant Bay – are breathtaking! I love driving DOWN Cape Smokey too – hang on tight, take your time, and enjoy the ride.”
“Both ways provide great scenery and a number of spots to pull over and…”
–Yarmouth Contact Centre travel counsellors
“… enjoy walking/hiking trails, views from the look-offs, and the numerous coastal villages along the route. The direction the traveler takes around the Cabot Trail may depend on what they plan to see prior to their trip – such as experiencing the Acadian charm and culture of Chéticamp or the Scottish roots and traditions in Cape Breton which would lead to a visit at the St. Ann’s Gaelic College near Baddeck.”
“You can also start or finish the Cabot Trail via the Ceilidh Trail (Route 19)…”
–Port Hastings Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
“… from the Canso Causeway at the entrance to Cape Breton Island. This way, you will follow the coastline all the way to/from Margaree Forks where Route 19 meetings the Cabot Trail, passing through some picture perfect communities like Port Hood, Mabou, and Inverness with attractions such as Cabot Links and Cabot Cliffs golf courses, Glenora Distillery, The Red Shoe Pub, Celtic Music Interpretive Centre, beautiful beaches, and sunsets over the ocean.”
“I prefer to drive the Cabot Trail clockwise as I like the view, although…”
–Peggy’s Cove Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
“… some may prefer the feeling that you are hugging the mountains more as it’s a bit less intimidating, too.”
“I prefer to travel counter-clockwise because…”
–Peggy’s Cove Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
“… it gives passengers a thrilling ride. As the driver, I love going up and down Cape Smokey Mountain near Ingonish!”
“Counter-clockwise – I love driving UP Cape Smokey and…”
–Halifax Airport Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
“… seeing the view overlooking Ingonish on the way down the other side… and I love the views as you come around the west side of Cape Breton as you get closer to Chéticamp. You also have easy access to most pull-offs / look-offs in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park by going counter-clockwise as many are to your right, between the road and ocean.”
“We like to let cyclists know that the Cabot Trail is listed as…”
–Yarmouth Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
“… one of Lonely Planet’s top bike rides in the world. Cyclists planning to bike the Cabot Trail can book with Freewheeling Adventures for guided and self-guided packages and itineraries.”
“Whichever direction you decide to drive, I will always recommend…”
–Yarmouth Contact Centre travel counsellors
“… that you drive along the coast in Cape Breton getting to/from the Cabot Trail as much as possible. This could include driving along the Bras d’or Lake to get to Baddeck for a clockwise or counter-clockwise Cabot Trail adventure or – my favourite – taking Route 19 (Ceilidh Trail) all the way up the west coast to enter the Cabot Trail in Margaree Forks for a clockwise trip. Oh – and we love taking the Englishtown Ferry for the views too!
Where should I start my Cabot Trail drive?
Depending on where you are arriving from – mainland Nova Scotia or elsewhere on Cape Breton Island – and if you plan to go clockwise or counter-clockwise, you have a number of options of where you can hop on the Cabot Trail. Here are four most commonly used entrances to access the Cabot Trail:
Travelling clockwise
- Take the Ceilidh Trail (Route 19) from Port Hastings as you enter Cape Breton Island to meet the Cabot Trail in Margaree Forks.
- Drive along Hwy 105 to hop on the Cabot Trail at Exit 7 in Nyanza, near Baddeck.
Travelling counter-clockwise
- Jump on the Cabot Trail at Highway 105, Exit 11 in St. Ann’s Bay
- Turn off Highway 105 at Exit 12 in Englishtown to take the Englishtown Ferry, a short cable ferry ride across the channel to Jersey Cove that connects St. Ann’s Bay and St. Ann’s Harbour. There is no fee/toll to take the ferry.
- Be sure to watch for signage near Exit 11 (if travelling from the Baddeck direction) or before Exit 12 (if travelling from the Sydney/Kelly’s Mountain direction) that will indicate if the ferry is operating as weather and regular maintenance can interrupt this daily, year-round ferry service.
What stops, attractions, places to eat, shop, hidden gems, activities, etc. do you recommend to first-timers driving around the Cabot Trail?
Believe us when we say there is a LOT to see & do around the Cabot Trail including many “hidden gems”! Here are some of our staff’s top recommendations:
Amherst Visitor Information Centre staff shared some of their favourites:
- St. Ann’s Gaelic College / Great Hall of the Clans: beautiful property and gift shop, with great demonstrations by staff and faculty members including milling frolics, kilt-making, music and dancing over lunch!
- Whale Interpretive Centre in Pleasant Bay: learn about the ecosystems in the area before a whale watching tour.
- A visit to Ingonish would not be complete without a ride up Cape Smokey on the gondola – the first gondola in eastern Canada at Cape Smokey – that is open year-round for four seasons of fun!
- Take in the beautiful views at Hideaway Campground & Oyster Market in South Harbour and be sure to order their fresh Aspy Bay oysters at their onsite Oyster Bar!
- Black Brook Beach near Ingonish for a refreshing jump in the waves, a waterfall and a short hiking trail.
Staff at Peggy’s Cove Visitor Information Centre’s shared some of their favourite stops along the Cabot Trail:
- Ingonish Beach: a beautiful beach with some awesome waves – with a stay at the Keltic Lodge at the Highlands. North Bay Beach is also close by with calmer waves on this quiet sandy beach.
- Visiting Chéticamp and stopping in at Les Trois Pignons to learn about the French Acadian heritage and to try your hand at rug hooking is a must! Be sure to stop at Flora’s Gift Shop, the ultimate one-stop shop.
- Looking for a great spot to stop to eat along the Cabot Trail? The Dancing Goat Cafe & Bakery in Margaree Valley serves up sandwiches made on their fresh bread plus a daily assortment of baked goods and more. Be sure to try their homemade porridge bread if you are lucky enough to get a loaf before they sell out for the day.
- The picnic park at Lake O’Law Provincial Park in Margaree – it’s a great place for a lake swim on a warm summer’s day. There are so many places to stop for photos but, most importantly, at the top of French Mountain and North Mountain when you’ve climbed them by bike!
- Stop in Baddeck to visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site and stay at one of the resorts, inns, B&Bs or cottages nearby. Make sure to take the White Glove Tour at the museum (if available) so you can see – and even hold – some of Bell’s inventions and personal belongings in your hands!
- Be sure to walk along the Baddeck Waterfront to take in the view that Bell and his wife Mabel loved enough to build a home here. You will even see a statue of them from their favourite spot to sit along the waterfront.
Staff at the Yarmouth Visitor Information Centre recommend:
- Stop in Grand Étang to visit the Centre de la Mi-Carême then off to Chéticamp to stop at The Doryman Pub & Grill for food and Acadian music.
- It’s off the Cabot Trail (exit at Cape North) in Nova Scotia’s most northern tip, but you can only get there from the Cabot Tail. Go hiking in Meat Cove for the amazing views and you can even camp in the cliffside campground that overlooks the Atlantic Ocean!
- Stop in Ingonish and eat at Coastal Restaurant & Pub – I love their burgers! For the golfers, Cape Breton Highlands Links is also located in Ingonish next to Keltic Lodge at the Highlands.
- Hike or walk the Skyline Trail (level, wide trail that is stroller and wheelchair friendly) in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. During the summer months, National Park staff offer guided Sunset Hikes which, if you have the chance to take in a sunset from the Skyline Trail – don’t miss out! For a more challenging hike, check out Franey Trail. Every one of the 26 trails within the Cape Breton Highlands National Park is amazing and worth hiking!
Travel counsellors at the Halifax Stanfield International Airport Visitor Information Centre recommend:
- The Chowder House in Neil’s Harbour and the Rusty Anchor Restaurant in Pleasant Bay: good food and great views.
- Le Gabriel Restaurant & Lounge in Chéticamp: Excellent seafood and great location for large groups.
- Uisge Bàn Falls Provincial Park, located minutes from Baddeck is a 3.5 km trail with a 50 foot waterfall in a gorge. Great for nature lovers!
- Kingross Quilts and Fibre Arts in Margaree Valley: works of art in quilting and hooked rugs.
- Leather Works by Jolene in Indian Brook on Cape Breton Island’s Cabot Trail – wonderful handmade leather products!
- Big Spruce Brewing in Nyanza for a locally brewed beer.
Yarmouth Contact Centre staff recommendations include:
- In Chéticamp, stop for butter tarts and cinnamon buns at the La Boulangerie Aucoin Bakery and for coffee and local art, head to Freya & Thor Gallery and Café for wonderful, whimsical, one-of-a-kind carvings, paintings, hooked rugs and more but over 100 local and Maritime artists, including works and giftware by several Cape Breton artists. While there, enjoy an espresso and other specialty coffees in their cafe.
- Go whale watching in Cape Breton! The stunning natural beauty of northern Cape Breton Island from the water will literally take your breath away… oh, and the whales and dolphins are pretty amazing to see, too! You may even spot sea turtles, Sunfish (Mola), Atlantic Puffins and other sea life.
- Go ziplining in South Harbour with Mountain Pine Adventures where you will zip over sections of South Harbour!
- If you like taking scenic detours, you’ll want to drive the coastal route between South Harbour and Neil’s Harbour where you’ll discover the tiny, picture-perfect fishing community of White Point. In the summertime, be sure to have a seafood meal at The Chowder Hut in Neil’s Harbour and stop by the lighthouse and treat yourself to an ice cream. Seriously – there is an ice cream shop in the lighthouse!
- Drive through the small village of Dingwall to the Markland Coastal Beach Cottages property to take in the million dollar view of the Cape Breton Highlands mountain range overlooking the long, sandy beach that separates the ocean and bay in the Aspy Bay Fault area.
- Take the exit at Cape North to visit Cabot’s Landing Provincial Park, the site where Italian explorer John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto) is believed to have first landed on Cape Breton Island before continuing to the villages of Bay St. Lawrence, where you can go on a whale watching boat tour, and Meat Cove where you can camp on the cliffside campground.
- Visit artists’ open studios and artisan galleries all along the Cabot Trail to view the amazing works inspired by the natural beauty of Cape Breton. From pottery, woodwork and silversmith-made jewelry to handmade quilts, hooked rugs, paintings, prints, and so much more, you’re sure to find the perfect souvenirs that beautifully capture your Cabot Trail experience!
- All 26 different look-offs situated along the Cabot Trail within the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Each look-off offers something different from the view to the opportunity to learn about the area from Parks Canada staff.
Additional FAQs about the Cabot Trail
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